| Excavations at Capel Teilo, Kidwelly, 19661969 G. R. JONES 
      William Hill (Bill) 
      Morris stimulated a renewed interest in the investigation and recording 
      of archaeological sites from the Prehistoric to the Industrial eras 
      in Carmarthenshire, over a period of some twenty years from 1960.1 
      He supervised and recorded these amateur 'digs' without the benefit of a 
      training in practical archaeology, aided by a number of university students 
      and secondary school pupils who had been imbued with his own fascination 
      for local history. Capel Teilo was one such site. 
       HISTORICAL EVIDENCE AND LOCATION 
       The RCAHM Carmarthenshire Inventory, referring to the visit 
        in 1912, dryly recorded that: 
       This is the site of a small chapel on the northern boundary 
        of the parish [of Penbre], of which it is said that traces were to be 
        seen a few years ago. Stones have been carted from the spot, and not a 
        vestige of building now remains. Within a few yards to the south was a 
        spring called Pistyll Teilo.2 
       The earliest written reference to 'Chappel Tylo' near Pistyll 
        Teilo in Kidwelly parish was in 1593, and the name appeared in several 
        further references to the locality contained in the Muddlescombe Estate 
        papers during the seventeenth century.3 The location 
        of Capel Teilo was marked in a corresponding position on Saxton's Map 
        of Carmarthenshire of 1578 by the symbol representing a church or chapel 
        and on later seventeenth century maps.4 It was shown 
        with a church symbol on Bowen's Map of 17295 but had 
        disappeared from the maps c.1750 and was ruinous by 1762.6 
        Subsequently it was shown inaccurately on the site of the now ruined dwelling 
        Ty Capel Teilo located at the roadside 300 yards to the west of the chapel.7 
        The location of Pistyll Teilo was added later8 but both 
        sides were omitted altogether on the 1957 Ordnance Survey map.9 
       Tales of 'Old St. Teilo's Church' and the nearby spring 
        still survived in local folklore in the mid nineteenth century.10 
        The site was not considered to merit a visit by 190011 
        though the dimensions of the chapel were then still discernible as crude 
        and ruinous walls.12-14 It is likely that over the years 
        stones from Capel Teilo were incorporated into the nearby buildings of 
        Ty Capel Teilo (now ruinous), Morfa Bach, which moved to its present site 
        about 1850, and Caegwyllt which is possibly the site of the former mansion 
        of Pengwern Uchaf.15  
       By the early 1950s the chapel site was thickly covered 
        by bushes and saplings,an abandoned corner at the east end of the field 
        contiguous with which was the adjacent wilderness of Cwm Teilo. An attempt 
        by the late J. F. Jones (former Curator, Carmarthen Museum) to rediscover 
        the site of the chapel building using dynamite proved unrewarding! In 
        Spring 1966 Mr Smith of Cae Gwyllt Farm attempted to reclaim this overgrown 
        part of the field for farming use. Having cleared away the dense overgrowth, 
        his efforts to plough the site were thwarted by numerous large immoveable 
        underlying stones. In May 1966 three large stones in alignment were located 
        in the inner face of a north wall. This development was noted by W. H. 
        Morris on one of his many regular surveillance excursions to the are. 
        Capel Teilo had been rediscovered. 
       THE SITE 
       The site of the Chapel is on a spur of land on that part 
        of the eastern slope of Mynyddy-Garreg known as Penyfoel, on the western 
        side of the Gwendraeth fawr valley, some two miles eastnortheast of Kidwelly. 
        The remains of the building lie 200 feet above sea level at the head of 
        Cwm Teilo, which falls away over 50 feet immediately to the south at SN43560740. When informed of the historical importance of the site 
        the farmer readily consented to an excavation. This was carried out by 
        members of the Carmarthenshire Antiquarian Society and friends, under 
        the direction of W. H. Morris during the spring and summer seasons from 
        1966 to 1969. Notes on the progress of the work are contained in his day 
        book.16 
       THE CHAPEL 
       The Chapel was a simple rectangular building measuring 
        26 feet by 15 feet internally. The land fell significantly towards the 
        west through the building, which was orientated east-west. The walls were 
        about 2½ feet thick, with moderate sized undressed facing stones 
        inside and out, in a matrix of rubble, plaster and smaller stones. There 
        were no dressed stone fragments on the site. A foundation course had been 
        laid external to the south wall. No structural division existed between 
        nave and chancel walls. 
       These walls had survived to a height of only two or three 
        courses above the footings. The best-preserved section was the north wall, 
        and the northeast corner in particular. Much of the east and south walls 
        had been robbed apart from one large internal facing stone near the southeast 
        corner. The floor which lay one foot below the exterior ground level was 
        formed of irregular flat, mediumsized stone laid on clay and was level 
        with the wall footing inside the northeast corner. No trace of windows 
        or door-way survived but presumably the entrance been through the west 
        wall. Numerous broken slates and fragments of ridge tiles on the site 
        suggested that the roof had been of that construction. 
       A crude step of white stones was sited about 8 feet from 
        the east wall, and extended for 3 feet from the north wall. The footing 
        of the altar on its north side was consistent with an altar width of 7 
        feet, assuming symmetry. A layer of plaster extended west from the altar 
        appeared to have formed the chancel floor. 
       Outside the east wall and northeast corner there was a 
        layer of loose cockleshell mortar several inches thick which extended 
        irregularly for 4 or 5 feet eastwards. Its purpose presumably to prevent 
        water seepage into the building from the higher ground. This area been 
        cut across by a modern water-pipe. Beneath the mortar layer and set adjacent 
        to the wall footing at the northeast corner were larger flat slabs of 
        slate, set irregularly and up to three deep. This layer extended for 2 
        or 3 feet from the wall with smaller slates lying beyond fading at about 
        6 feet from the east wall. There was no mortar associated with this slate 
        layer. The outside the north wall was not investigated. The areas external 
        to the south and west walls described below. 
       The rough walls of undressed stone in a building with an 
        internal width of only 15 feet suggested a twelfth or early thirteenth 
        century date. The ridge tile fragments were probably thirteenth to fifteenth 
        century, in keeping with later improvements supported by the presence 
        of a 7 foot wide altar and chancel step.17 EVIDENCE FOR AN EARLIER BUILDING 
       Beneath the Chapel floor of irregular flat slabs, which 
        were laid on 6 inches of yellow clay, was a firm surface of small, wellset 
        cobblestones. This surface extended beyond the line of the robbed out 
        west wall, where there were traces of what might have been a raised altar17 
        and an apse. This lower floor also extended along the north and west walls 
        of the Chapel. 
       Remains of an earlier wall were found partly overlain by 
        the later north wall. On the south side the earlier wall was about 2 foot 
        thick and ran immediately inside the course of the later south wall. No 
        mortar was associated with this stonework. 
       Outside the south walls there was an ill-defined surface 
        of small irregular stones set in clay, fading towards the edge of the 
        Cwm. To the west of the Chapel on a level some 6 inches below the wall 
        footing was a well defined surface of irregular grey stones firmly set 
        on clay, which extended westwards under the bed of the stream (dry during 
        summertime). It was not clear whether this was a natural or man-made surface. 
       There was a suggestion that the field hedge to the north 
        and east of the Chapel may originally have been part of a bank which encircled 
        the site.17 THE BURIALS 
       The skeleton of a male aged about 15 years was found beyond 
        the mortar layer, to the east of the Chapel in a shallow grave. The burial 
        was orientated facing east with the arms folded on the chest. The bones 
        were soft and poorly preserved, the spine, pelvis and legs being no longer 
        discernable. Overlaying the chest was a single copper button of eighteenth 
        century date presumably belonging to a cloak, as no other buttons were 
        found. Immediately surrounding the skeleton was an indeterminate blackish 
        layer, perhaps the remains of textile. 
       The skeletons of three or more infants were also uncovered 
        near the southeast corner of the Chapel, buried superficially and in close 
        proximity, not orientated. There were no gravestones on the site and no 
        burials were discovered inside the Chapel. 
       It was not customary for burials to take place other than 
        at the parish church until the nineteenth century. The isolated burials 
        at Capel Teilo imply a continued veneration being accorded to the site. 
        The young man may have died by drowning or suicide, while the infants 
        may have been stillbirths or neonatal deaths. 
       THE FINDS 
       Numerous finds of North Devon 'gravel-tempered' ware, 'sgraffito' 
        plate, slip ware posset pot and other miscellaneous redware sherds of 
        seventeenth to eighteenth century date were found both inside and outside 
        the building. Similar types were found at Kidwelly Castle. These North 
        Devon wares from the kilns of the Barnstaple-Bideford area were traded 
        extensively along the south Wales coast and far beyond.18 
       The ridge tile sherds, some with shallow, lopsided crests 
        were of thirteenth-fifteenth century date.18 A Charles 
        II farthing (1672-9 type) was found on the later floor inside the south 
        wall. A variety of Victorian and later china fragments were found superficially 
        within the Chapel. There were cockleshells in the eastern sections of 
        the excavation but very few animal bones were found, and there was no 
        evidence of fires. 
       PISTYLL TEILO 
       This was noted in references to nearby 'Chappell Tylo' 
        in 1593 and 1622.19 Though the two were clearly associated 
        they were not co-located. At the end of the nineteenth century steps led 
        down from the field to Pistyll Teilo, though no trace of these now remains. 
        The water was said to be especially good for rheumatism and sprains.19 
        Legend refers to a ghost which formerly haunted this spot and cried in 
        pitiful tones: 
       Mae'n hir ac yn o'r i ares The site of the spring was not investigated during the excavations as 
        it was completely overgrown and inaccessible at that time. 
       POSTSCRIPT 
       In recent years the Chapel site has been filled in and 
        a new entrance made into the field opposite the farm lane leading to CaeGwyllt. 
        The trees and bushes on the north rim of Cwm Teilo have been cut down 
        exposing the site, and is again under grass. The large stone which forms 
        the northeast corner of the Chapel building is still visible on the surface 
        however, which will allow orientation for astute visitors to the site. 
       ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 
       My thanks are due to Terry and Heather James who provided 
        me with the opportunity to write this article, and who waited patiently 
        for the draft version and have helped prepare the illustrations. Also 
        those colleagues who toiled away with me on that quiet hillside in an 
        earnest attempt to discover the secrets of Capel Teilo. Finally, to the 
        late Bill Morris himself, who gave us all so much insight and understanding 
        of local history. 
       NOTES 
        1. 
        H. James, 'W. H. Morris A Memoir', Carms. Antiq., vol XXV, 1989, 
        pp. 38. |